Someone Else's Adventures in BGH

This week I came across an article that took my breath away. You'll just have to read it to see what I mean. Someone else's adventures - but they give a sense of the context outside these four walls in a way that I could otherwise only imagine.....

Jet-Skiing in the Triangle of Death

A former advisor to the U.S. commanding general in Iraq returns to Baghdad as a tourist and eats, chats, and listens to locals cover the Bee Gees, while pondering the country's future.

BY EMMA SKY | JUNE 21, 2011

The taxi driver to the Beirut airport tells me that yom al-qiyama (the day of judgment) is approaching. There will be a big explosion soon -- a very big explosion. The revolutions sweeping the Arab world are not good. Islamic parties will come to power everywhere. There will be no more Christians left in the Middle East. Believe me, believe me, he insists. In anticipation, he will make the hajj to Mecca this year, inshallah. I tell him that I am traveling to Iraq as a tourist. The look he gives me in the rearview mirror says it all: He thinks I am crazy

I am heading back to Iraq nine months after I left my job as political advisor to the commanding general of U.S. Forces-Iraq. Earlier this year, a sheikh emailed me from his iPad, "Miss Emma we miss you. You must come visit us as a guest.  .  .  

What Time Is It Anyway?

Now that E has arrived I have lost track of time. There's no longer the concrete decrease in some chronological increment as I look forward. This week I feel like I have tumbled ahead day after day after day. Is it Monday? Today is Thursday? Did a weekend come and go?

This morning I realized that it has been since Sunday that I've talked with my family. Sorry about that, guys! There's a new routine to get into now. I need some other way of tracking the days. Most people count down to their next R&R. That keeps them safe from the achronous flotation that I seem to have found myself in.

I suppose striving for mindfulness would be the preferred alternative...

Now - I'm not saying that's completely out of reach. But today, as I see another groundhog day ahead of me, I wonder...

What a strange and funny thing is time.

Oh Happy Day!

That's right. E is here!

Everyone I know here is saying that I hadn't looked quite right until now. Wide wide wide smiles.

There were many things about being here that were bearable before. Now, I might actually find joy in them!

Life is good.

And Speaking of Palaces....

In case this didn't make it across your desks or coffee tables already, this one is worth a read....

Bye-Bye bidets! US troops leaving Saddam palaces

By REBECCA SANTANA, Associated Press 

BAGHDAD (AP) — Available soon: nine palaces in lakeside complex frequented by visiting kings and dictators, beautiful molded ceilings and light fixtures, many bidets, Saddam Hussein mural and former prison cell. As is, with Tomahawk missile damage. Contact: U.S. Army.

Thus might read a real estate ad for the Victory Base Complex, one of the many properties the U.S. military is vacating as the Dec. 31 deadline for its withdrawal from Iraq approaches. It will leave behind probably some of the most elaborate, some would say tacky, office spaces ever used by American soldiers, sailors or Marines.

The U.S. military has been headquartered in the complex near Baghdad International Airport almost since GIs reached Baghdad in 2003. Countless U.S. dignitaries have passed through.

It Is an odd place to work, surrounded by so much Saddam history and grandiosity.

By the time the dictator was toppled, he had built about 75 palaces and VIP complexes nationwide. That is according to the then U.S. military historian's report on the Victory Base Complex written last year.

Touring the complex is a bit like touring Saddam's mind.

There is the Victory over Iran palace, commemorating the 1980-1988 war he started that ended in stalemate and half a million dead. And the Victory over America palace commemorating the 1991 Gulf War in which a U.S.-led coalition drove Saddam's invading forces out of Kuwait.

"Any war that Saddam survived was a victory," said Col. Les Melnyk, the current U.S. military historian in Iraq.

Now the Iraqi government must figure out what to do with all this square footage.

It already is turning a palace complex in the southern city of Basra into a museum. A palace near the ruins of Babylon may become a hotel......

http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5hq793uIPk-C1pp7ioYFA2KXz49Tw?docId=859b938f6a864b1fbc77bbb3bd106745

A Disturbing Thought about Buildings

This morning we were out at one of the bombed out palaces. It's really quite scenic, although it doesn't sound that way. I wish I could share more pictures, but as you can probably understand, it's a bit difficult. There are water features and trees, walkways and birds, and at the center: a monstrously elaborate building with a lofty cupola, and dome after dome after dome.

As I was taking in the view, I was thinking about how strange it is to see such extravagant architecture in a "contemporary" building. I mean, in the other countries in the region that we've been to, it seems the vast majority of stylistically ornate buildings are from centuries ago. Amazing and inspiring, and often vestiges of the past. The buildings from the 20th century tend to be more functional, bureaucratic, modern. Yes, many newer mosques are frequently intricately decorated, but with modern lines and features.

There was something else going on here, and I wondered if it wasn't an indication of a larger societal ill... Like: a city with an immense library or museum, or university, or house of representatives... that makes sense to me. Celebrate public works. Make a gorgeous mosque the centerpiece of a city.

Sure, important people get to live in important houses - especially if they have historical value. But.... these crazy palaces.... built pretty recently.... intensely elaborate, with "classical" materials and techniques......all over the city.... and while the citizens got..... got what?!

The sight left me rather disturbed. Still thinking about it 14 hours later...

How I Spent My Walk Home

Today walking home from work, I took a little tour imagining the fun things I'll do with E when he *finally* gets here next week:

• walking home together!
• sitting on "the corniche" under the misting fans for a drink
• going to the dfac (dining facility) and actually eating there (I always get it to go)
• hanging out with friends at Baghdaddy's
• BBQ-ing after sunset
• chilling by the pool (maybe)
• chasing the shade as we cross the compound
• pretending we're on Roosevelt Island while doing the loop here
• checking out the latest additions to the community gardens

And that doesn't even include all the things we'll likely have to do together for work. One week from this evening, these can start being real! Woohooooo!

Oy! My Aching Hippocampus

I learned this week that the most commonly injured body part here is the hippocampus. That's right, we've been told that we should all expect to have "broken" hippocamp-i  after 60-90 days.

How does this happen? Apparently it's the stress. Living in such a stressful environment has a number of less-than-desirable side effects. You already know about the chunk/hunk/monk/skunk/drunk trends. Well apparently we also have a strong tendency to lose our minds - at least the short term memory part of our minds. And I can see that that will likely lead to losing lots of other things as well....

Bummer.

But, they say it comes back. Within 60-90 days of returning to non-stressful environments. That great! I thought. But then, where can I go that is actually non-stressful?! I guess it's probably relative.

Before this turns into a total downer of a post, let me counter the above with these perks:

• 24-hour massage chairs!
• waffle bar at lunch today!
• they just planted palm trees! 
• getting to watch the late night news/comedy shows before my bed time!

Annnnnnnd that's about it for now. Not bad on the whole.

Greetings from a Friend

Yesterday I took an mini imagination vacation to Roosevelt Island. I was out for a walk in the morning, and after the massive sandstorm, it had actually cooled off quite a bit. Down to about 100, I think. So it was rather temperate.... I was enjoying the breeze and the lack of dust..... and for a moment I was back with E at our favorite walking spot, Roosevelt Island. When I got to the office later, this photo was waiting in my inbox. E had just been to our spot the previous evening to check on "our friends." And he wanted to pass on their greetings. This one's antlers have grown several inches since I last saw him! A welcome face....

what molly is living in right now

check out this youtube video.