Touching Down

Sand, taupe, brown, khaki, tan, wheat, caramel, buff, peach, camel, beige, terra-cotta . . .

We are touching down in Khartoum, Sudan - gliding over a landscape of tawny desert. At first there is only sand and rock. Then, we come to neat squares of green and yellows. Finally, we start to see city buildings - spaced far apart. Dirt roads, occasionally spare shrubs, homes . . . then BLUE! The river Nile. This far upstream the Blue and White Niles are clear and stunning. Cooling to the eyes after miles of burnt hues. . .

We are on the ground, but it does not yet feel real. We roll by white U.N. airplanes, more than I have ever seen in my life. By outbuildings, and nearby homes. The airport in Khartoum is right in the middle of the city.

Stepping out of the plane, I feel like I have just walked into my hair dryer. My nostrils filled with warm dryness. All around there is fine apricot-colored dust. On the ground, on the cars, on every surface and paper, the leaves of trees, and even my skin. It is unavoidable.

We head into the city toward our new home. When cars stop on the road in front of our Landcruiser, we just fourwheel around them off the side of the road. Traffic is congested in this hot city, but no one is really in a hurry anyway. We wait.

In the streets are women in brightly colored thoubs; the long one-piece garments are wrapped gracefully around and around from head to toe. They are the flowers in this desert city. The men in uniforms of white gelabiyyas or dark slacks and light colored dress shirts. It is hot. People move slowly. The shade is crowded.

Enfolded in the curve of the Ethiopian Blue Nile as it meets the White Nile flowing North from Uganda, Khartoum rests. It is a quiet city. Developing, moving, growing, but quiet for now. At night, it is dark. The neon lights of other North African cities absent . . . only a few street lights, and security lamps on people's homes. During the day there is bustle, but at a pace hindered by temperatures of 50 degrees centigrade (upwards of 130 Fahrenheit).

Who knows what our post here will bring? At the moment we are simultaneously thrilled, tired, curious, surprised, hungry, encouraged, and awed. We are touching down, but still not fully grounded. We are eager to see what each new day has in store.