Is that what you even call a group of goats? I can't remember. But, yes, it must mean that we're back in Sudan . . .
This wasn't just a couple of billies and nannies on their way to be dinner for a big celebration. Nope. This was a full-fledged tribe of some 30-40 little guys. Right there on the sidewalk - you know the one sidewalk in town? The one by the paved road. The one right by the Nile - the Blue Nile that is.
Long, light, white gallabeya billowing, the goat-herd was coaxing them from one grazing field to another, just as I was out for a morning walk. Is there anything cuter than a little goat kid calling out for her parents??!! I don't think so. It was a great start to the day.
And that's a good reminder of the kind of crossroads we find ourselves in here in Khartoum. On the one side of the street is a developing residential neighborhood. Multi-story buildings in process, construction machinery, scaffolding. On the other side - the pastoral life of centuries gone by.
I've mentioned before that there is a thin stretch of green between the dust and bustle of the city and the Nile here. It was amazing to watch the seasons pass in those fields. When we first arrived everything was parched. Green, but only because of the system of hand-dug irrigation ditches scratching their way from crop to crop. At the end of the summer everything floods and all the farming families had to seek higher ground, either on patches of hills in their fields, or temporarily in other sections of the city. Now we're prepping for the duststorms and then . . . then it will be summer. I'm sweating just thinking about it.
Right now is a great time to be in Sudan. Well, let me say that it is a complicated time to be in Sudan. We were deeply saddened at the news of the deaths of colleagues John Granville and Abdel Rahman Abbas over the New Year. That has shaken all of us in a deep way. Communities come together during hard times, though, and it's my feeling that we've done the same. News in Chad is also frightening as we wonder where the conflict will spread next.
But with heightened security measures, we have an excuse to invite our friends to OUR PLACE now instead of the usual house-hopping we tend to do for socialization. Recently we had a group of local friends over for brunch and they ended up staying all day. We talked and talked and talked . . . . and ended up getting out this new game we got for Christmas - Apples to Apples. Do you know it? It's a word association game and it's a blast. Even with one of us not speaking any English we were able to make a bi-lingual go at it. Hilarious.
And there's the puzzle. The enourmous map of the world that came home with us from the Mall of America (along with a bunch of other stuff I don't remember buying - how does that happen??!!) it made its way onto our dining room table and has precluded any additional parties involving formal food service, but has also made for hours of home entertainment for us.
So, we're doing ok. Being careful. But still being open when we can, and enjoying this rich and diverse culture. From the recently launched zmail program which will deliver email to mobile phones throughout the country to the goats, sorgum, and braying donkey across the street. Life at the crossroads - we feel lucky to be here.
1 comment:
What a beautiful post. I love Apples to Apples. I can only imagine a bilingual go at it :) I think that there is a book in your future Molly -- your prose are so alive and full of heartfelt details that make for really great reading and feeling of a place so foreign to me. Your prose is inspiring and makes me wonder at the obscurity of the "ivory tower" academic discipline I have chosen (at least for now...)
Love,
Kaija
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